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Routes in Dream Tower

East Coast Dreams S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hail Dancer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Mike McGill, Bob Perna
Page Views: 286 total, 3/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jul 16, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

East Coast Dreams would be a good climb if it weren't for a screwed-up start and some sketchy flakes on an easier section midway up.

Start up unprotected slab, or go up left trending easy bushy gully.

Clip the first bolt, make a long reach to a positive pocket, and gun it through the steep section past 2 more bolts. Traverse right, using some scary-looking flakes, where you'll join the easier upper section of the center bolted line (Sanctuarium, 5.12b/c). Mantle, step left, and crank on up good huecos to the chains.

The photo in Jemez Rock is a little bit off in how it depicts the upper section, but you shouldn't get lost.

Location

East Coast Dreams is the westernmost bolt line on the Dream Tower proper. This formation is just right of, or upstream from, The Sponge, just right of where the creek hits the north-side cliff (cross the stream on a log).

Protection

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. (The guidebook lists 6)

Photos

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