Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jeff Pedersen and Bill Boyle
Page Views: 730 total · 6/month
Shared By: Alec LaLonde on Jul 16, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Best climb of the grade at the wall. Climbs a slab for three bolts to an overhanging, flared crack. Use fingerlocks(!) or interesting liebacks to fire the steepness to a sweet pinch and tough clip, then up and left to a tricky top-out. Very satisfying.

Be wary of loose stuff on this route, I saw a belayer get nailed in the thigh by a fist-sized rock.

Location

Rightmost climb on the wall. Shares the start with the .13a to the left. First bolt is up 25 feet or so.

Protection

6 bolts and chains

Photos

Ryan Arnold
  5.12a
Ryan Arnold  
  5.12a
Worthwhile route! 3 and a half stars, rounded up to four. I initially thought it was quite stiff for the grade, but with good beta through the crux, 12a is probably right. Currently there's a permadraw on the crux clip. Jun 8, 2016
Rud Johansen  
 
A sweet and varied 12a in American Fork, with a scary history (See first ascent in book). Under cling to crimps, pinches, side pull 1.5 pad and finger locks all the while shifting hips from opposing steep limestone bulges. Nice. Jun 30, 2016