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Routes in Band M (Opened Dec 2017)

3 Wogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bandit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butcher Block T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Finally Dunn T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
General Hospital A3
Heavy Weather Sailing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hercules S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
If Dogs Run Free T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Work T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Machina Ex Deus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Malt Therapy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Over Done T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Understatement, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Left of Hercules S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Way Radical T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Michael Hartrich, Joe Cote, Albert Dow May 1981
Page Views: 512 total, 5/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Jul 16, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access now starts on Rt 16 by Tangelwood Motel, not on Rt 113 Details

Description

This is the first climb you come to if you follow the traditional approach trail. 3 bolts in a shallow groove mark the climb. Climb the groove to a ledge .10a. Then follow a beautiful hand crack out a flare .7 to the top.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

- No Photos -
10a seems the right grade but I'd add a PG-13 rating to caution leaders -- it stays tricky for 10' above the 2nd bolt, and a fall from up there would be nasty.

The clean corner on the second pitch is "old school" 5.7, awkward in places. Protects well with cams and nuts, although you can see daylight through the crack.

As noted above, you can rap with one 60m from bolt anchors at the top of P2. There's some old tat at the P1 belay not worth clipping. Sep 14, 2011
BALDY
Gilmanton, NH
  5.10a
BALDY   Gilmanton, NH
  5.10a
This route is shorter than 200', and much shorter than the description in the Webster guide. You can rap from the double bolt anchor at the top of the second pitch to the ground with one 60 meter rope. The aforementioned guide pegs the 1st pitch at .10a and 90' (its more like 40')and the second at 5.7, 120' (which is actually 70'). Sep 5, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Oh just pissin' Mar 17, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
God!!! I fixed it, what more do you want from me!
Just kidding, I try to add FA/FFA/FRA when I can. I don't look at the guides as much and add routes when I get stuck in the office. I thought that I have added credit where credit is due on most of the routes I've added here. Will try to be better in the future Mar 17, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Nice Jason ! I have been through this over and over. Mar 16, 2010
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
FA: Michael Hartrich, Joe Cote, Albert Dow May 1981

When did first ascent information become unimportant? Mar 7, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
Hardest .10a I've been on, burlap? Mar 4, 2010
first pitch is tricky, the bolts were replaced but the second bolt is much lower than the original second bolt which makes the mantle scary as you would take a nice slider. Mar 4, 2010