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Routes in Green Phantom Rock

Chlorite T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fine Line TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Great Escape T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Phantom Crack far left T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Phantom Staircase Left TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantom Staircase Middle TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Phantom Staircase Right TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power Struggle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Rib Line T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Roccocater S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Undercling Thing T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Phantom, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Jacket S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: ??? Probably Rocco Spina
Page Views: 255 total, 2/month
Shared By: philfell on Jul 13, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

If someone has better info on the FA and the actual name of this climb please post and I will update the description.

Down and to the left of the Phantom Staircase climbs there is a lichen covered slab with a left slanting crack.

Climb this left slanting crack to the top of the slab, you can stop here and clip the super old anchors (which are overdue to be replaced in my opinion), or you can look to your right and continue up the obvious stemming slot to the top of the Phantom Staircase climbs. There is a single bolt at the top of this crack which can be backed up by the tree and makes for a good anchor to be lowered back done. Make sure you have a 60m rope because a 50m won't make it back down.

This is probably the easiest climb in the area, but since there is limited info in the book it rarely gets done. It is a good climb for someone looking for their first gear lead, or for a beginner to second it and clean. It could also be TRed if you choose to use the old bolts on top for anchors, not recommended though.

Location

Located on the slab to the left of the Phantom Staircase. In the Lake Tahoe climbing guidebook this slab has some top rope anchors and is marked as Unknown.

Protection

mostly finger sized pieces for pro. One bolt backed up by the tree at the top of the Phantom Staircase climbs to lower off of after leading.

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