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Bedeviled

5.11b, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 45 votes
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne (2008)
New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Grotto > Grotto Left (E Side)
Warning Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands DetailsDrop down

Description

Bedeviled begins on the arete and eventually moves left to a short crack over a bulge. The belay anchors of the Unnamed Crack are on the ledge above this bulge, but Bedeviled continues up and right without using these anchors. Move over another bulge (technical crux) and cruise to the anchors.

The variety of climbing and features (arete, face, traverse, and 2 bulges), makes this route an area classic! Well in my book:)

Location

Look for the next arete to the right from Waiting to Procrastinate. Belay on a shelf just up and right from the "Unnamed Crack".

Protection

12 bolts to a two-bolt anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Robin on the crux of Bedeviled.
[Hide Photo] Robin on the crux of Bedeviled.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Robin
Albuquerque, NM
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Totally sweet!!! Aug 9, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Reno, NV
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] Super fun, sustained climbing on big holds. The route is cleaning up nicely (it's not any looser than any of the other routes in the Lower Grotto). I thought the first bulge, not the second, was the crux, but to each his own. Mar 28, 2010
Rennie Putnam
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Replaced the worn aluminum biners on the anchor with steel ones. Aug 25, 2018
Kevin Freitas
Santa Fe, NM
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome line! Sep 15, 2019
Andrew Ellis
Taos, NM
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Really fun climbing with 2 really good rests to break up the pump. Good stuff. Sep 4, 2023