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Bedeviled
5.11b,
Sport, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 59
votes
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne (2008)
New Mexico
> Santa Fe Area
> Diablo Canyon
> Grotto
> Grotto Left (E Side)
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's (
blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) (
bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG (
nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are:
The Shack,
Winter Wall,
Solar Cave,
Lake Street and
Styx.
Description
Bedeviled begins on the arete and eventually moves left to a short crack over a bulge. The belay anchors of the Unnamed Crack are on the ledge above this bulge, but Bedeviled continues up and right without using these anchors. Move over another bulge (technical crux) and cruise to the anchors.
The variety of climbing and features (arete, face, traverse, and 2 bulges), makes this route an area classic! Well in my book:)
Location
Look for the next arete to the right from
Waiting to Procrastinate. Belay on a shelf just up and right from the "Unnamed Crack".
Protection
12 bolts to a two-bolt anchor
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