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Routes in East Buttress

Neda S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Speed of Light S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sun Dogs T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Richard Wright, Mark Tarrant, July 2009
Page Views: 92 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 13, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Neda, whose full name is Neda and The Time of Light, was named for Neda Agha-Soltan a new voice for freedom and democracy in Iran. She was murdered by soldiers of the Iranian government at a protest march on the 21st of June, 2009. Hopefully, her murder will mark the beginning of the end of repression in Iran. To the repressive forces in Iran we would say this: murder of the innocent, your own brothers and sisters, shows to the world that your time is drawing to a close and the clock is ticking. So, to paraphrase, ask not for whom the clock is ticking. It is ticking for thee.

Neda climbs the clean bulletproof left side of the West face. A tricky entry sequence gives way to more moderate climbing leading to a ledge at 50ft. Crux climbing comes off the ledge in a left-facing dihedral that remains difficult for approximately 20 ft. The final sequence follows an arete on juggy holds. Rock quality on Neda is excellent overall, although the ledge knocks a star off the rating for breaking up the continuity (the shake-out however is well appreciated !!).

Location

West face of the East Buttress. Left side. Approach via one of the right side routes in The Lair, Mammary Lane or Tap Line.

Protection

About a dozen draws and a 60 meter rope.

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
This dedication route reminds me of a rather powerful song about the Tienaman Square shootings. The song is 'Watching TV' by Roger Waters from the album 'Amused to Death'
You can look up the lyrics on the net, but the relevant closing thought in that song is:

"She's everybody's sister, She's symbolic of our failure
She's the one in fifty million who can help us to be free
Because she died on TV." Jul 13, 2009