Avg: 3.3 from 21 votes
Routes in Upper East Face
|Beaver, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Zumie's Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 3000 ft, Grade III|
|FA:||Gorrell & Watson, 1935|
|Page Views:||16,634 total, 164/month|
|Shared By:||justin dubois on Jul 13, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route climbs Long's via its obvious, left skyline. Starting at the Loft, it strives to stay right on the crest of the southeast ridge.
Much of this is simply 3rd class with HUGE exposure to your right, looking down the east face, and across the Diamond's profile.
Soak it in, and stay as close to edge as you dare, peering down at the vertigous East Face!
The crux comes when you reach the Notch. The Notch is very intimidating to look into, it's a ways down! Some rappel 100' from slings on the right, into the Notch from here, or for a rope-free affair, try Gorrell's Traverse. To reach it, turn left (south) and scramble down to the 2nd of two Chimneys that drop west into the Notch.
Downclimb this (5.5 Chimney) to reach The Notch. Much care must be taken to find the easiest line, as the chimney keeps trying to cliff you out...VERY EXCITING onsight with no rope! Basically head down the first stretch of chimney until it looks unlikely to go straight down. Look right (climber's left) for a devious traverse that will deposit you onto the floor of The Notch.
From here, climb up to the crest of The Notch, and angle around to the north side.
Look for a passage leading up towards Long's summit. This is the Stepladder. Ascend this Chimney/ramp (5.5)system until the angle eases and you can easily scramble to the summit!
One could access just this pitch if desired, by heading up to the notch from Clark's Arrow....