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All Systems Go

5.13c, , 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 3.6 from 5 votes
FA: Marc Hemmes (and Josh Thompson on last pitch). 3/2000
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Mitten Ridge > Flying Buttress

Description

All Systems Go 5.9 C3 starts up Epitaph 5.9 and then traverses left into the stellar, overhanging, right facing dihedral wall of the Epitaph corner. Mostly high quality rock and great exposure awaits the clean aid climber.

P1- Climb the first pitch of Epitaph, fun 5.9 and then tension traverse left to a thin crack which is the start of ASG. Continue aiding up this thin crack past one bolt and belay at a nice little stance with two bolts. C2+ slider nuts, etc.

P2- Continue up the obvious overhanging crack system through a 00 TCU section and then pop out the lip of the roof to a bolt anchor. C1+ exposed.

P3- The view from here is fantastic. Follow the same crack system as it angles up and right and finally terminates at the top of an expanding flake. From here use 3/8" x 2" screws or dowels to aid up the dowel holes in the otherwise blank face. As the angle of the rock eases, jump out of your aiders and freeclimb(5.7) up and left past one bolt and belay at a bolted anchor on a horizontal dike. 5.7 C2 (could go free at 5.11R??).

P4- Freeclimb upwards and ascend the right facing corner above, pass a nice ledge and go to the top. 5.8

Location

Find your way to the base of Epitaph 5.9 and start on that route.

Rap the route using two 60M ropes. P3 is 120 Ft. and the P2 belay at the lip of the roof to ground is 60M.

Protection

PLEASE LEAVE YOUR PINS AT HOME!

RACK-
2 ea. from 00 TCU's to #3 Camalots with xtra #3 and 4 TCU's for P2(with some leapfrogging involved).
2 ea. #1 and 2 Slider Nuts.
1 set of Nuts.
3/8" x 2" dowels.
Duct Tape to cover the lip of roof as your partner is jugging up.
2 60M ropes to rap the route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

early attempts on All Systems Go, 2012
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photo Blake McCord
[Hide Photo] early attempts on All Systems Go, 2012 photo Blake McCord
Attempting to capture the steepness
[Hide Photo] Attempting to capture the steepness

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Floater Bloom
Flagstaff AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Freed by Laura Sabourin with David Bloom on 2/9/18. Incredible performance! There is no C0. Mt proj wouldn't let go of the aid rating. Feb 9, 2018
Chase Bowman
Durango, CO
[Hide Comment] Was it really necessary to remove the aid rating? Literary nobody is going to climb the thing at 5.13 and it’s a pretty cool aid climb. Feb 3, 2022
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] There was a free version page that was posted up when Lor freed this, however, the user who submitted that eventually went rogue and started sabotaging his entries if he could not delete them. Since that time, no one has posted a new free version of the route. Oct 12, 2022
[Hide Comment] While we are splitting hairs, only P2 has been freed, accessed by the first pitch of Epitaph and the Scorpion Traverse midway. An excellent achievement in itself. Separate anchors were installed by David for this effort, below the roof near the end of the pitch. P1 and 3 still haven't been redpointed to my knowledge but this was many years ago now Oct 12, 2022
harrison t
Bozeman, MT
[Hide Comment] Chase, It's slightly ignorant stating that "literally nobody is going to climb this thing at 5.13." Especially with all the strong kids living on the road these days. ASG has seen a fair bit of free traffic throughout the past couple seasons, I've personally spent more than a dozen days belaying various friends on this wild overhanging thug fest, albeit unsuccessfully. Although the entire description is catered to aid climbers, this is a much cooler free pitch than an aid pitch.

Free rack: Triple tips - .5. Double.75. Single #1 and #2. A handful of #3s and slings for the approach pitch. Oct 25, 2022