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Routes in Freedom Peak

North Face Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Easy Snow R
Regular North Face Route 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow
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Type: Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 255 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Jul 11, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is a fun, easy snow route on the north face of Freedom Peak. Head up the snow slopes for several hundred feet to the obvious right-slanting couloir/gully. Follow this until it ends at the ridge and follow the ridge to the top of the peak. There are a couple 3rd class sections near the summit, but they are short and very easy.

Location [Suggest Change]

Leave the Dry Fork trail when you're right below the face. There will be a faint trail branching right off the main trail, right before the main trail takes a sharp turn to the left (north) and Lightning Pass. The route is obvious. See the beta photos.

Protection [Suggest Change]

An ice axe and crampons.
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I don't know what this route is really called. I've never heard anyone talk about it and never seen it mentioned on the internet or in any guidebook. Since it's on the north face and is the easiest route there, I figured Regular North Face Route made sense. I saw the route a couple days ago when I was hiking Cascade Peak and figured I'd give it a try.

I climbed this route on July 11 and the pictures are from then. As you can see, there was still quite a bit of snow in the gullies. It should still be like that for a couple more weeks, though the snow obviously won't last that long in years that didn't receive much snow.

The face is about 1400 feet high (according to my GPS) and that seems to make the route about 2000ish feet long. It's really easy, fun climbing. It took me about an hour and a half to get to the base of the face from the trailhead and about an hour to get from the base of the face to the summit. Crampons weren't necessary but they were nice to have.

Instead of descending the route, I traversed northeast to Shingle Mill Peak (another 10,000 foot peak). The traverse was 3rd class in a couple sections but was pretty tame overall. It took about an hour. From the top of Shingle Mill Peak, I followed a trail down and to the south for a bit until I lost the trail, then bombed straight down the slope to the bowl beneath the north face. The main trail is easy to find again. Jul 11, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I climbed this route again on July 3. Again, this is a really great route. Lots of fun to get on since it stays in shape longer than most snow climbs around here. There's more snow in it now than there was this same time last year. Jul 5, 2010
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I climbed this route again on July 4, 2011. I've done it at around the same time every year for three years now, and there is MUCH much more snow on the route now than in 2009 and 2010 (which of course isn't surprising based on how much it snowed this year). This made it even more enjoyable than usual.

I also realized this time that much of the couloir is steeper than I'd realized, so if you do head up there keep in mind that falling would be a really bad idea. The route is steeper than (though not as long as) Crow's Foot Couloir or Upper Pole Couloir on Cascade Mountain to the north. But it's still not technical or anything; my 60 year old dad climbed it with me last year.

The Squaw Peak Road (how you'd normally access the mountain) is still mostly closed due to avalanche debris still on the road, so I started at the mouth of Rock Canyon (elevation ~5,100 feet). From there to the top of Freedom Peak is 7.41 miles. This year I continued south along the summit ridge to East Provo Peak, Provo Peak, and Corral Mountain. I then went back down to the Squaw Peak Road and then back to Rock Canyon, which I'm guessing was ~22 miles total (my GPS ran out of batteries soon after the summit of Freedom Peak).

The scramble between Freedom Peak and Provo Peak is solid class 3 with a couple class 4 sections and is the best ridge scramble that I've found in the southern Wasatch. Jul 5, 2011

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