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Routes in Brothers' Under Belly Cave aka Bikini Cave

Bond, The V1-2 5 PG13
Hair Lip aka Hidden Thong V3-4 6A+ R
Left Cheek V4 6B PG13
Right Cheek V3 6A
Type: Boulder, 13 ft
FA: Tom Hanson
Page Views: 61 total, 1/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Jul 10, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start in the back of the cave on huge roof jugs. Be careful as these roof holds are questionable in there strength!!

Move out towards the lip of the roof via nice jugs. Pull onto the lip and toss up a crazy, right heel hook. Make a big and insecure move with your right hand to a wedge-shape hold. Work your left hand up the very thin lay back system until you gain to mid wall jug. From here, move up with your right into a small but good three finger pocket and get your right up higher on a sloping but positive hold. Get your feet straight and pull hard up and left to a some what hidden jug that saves the day.

This is an intense problem because of the quality of the rock, level of difficultly and the terrible land that you could face if any hold were to break or you just ran out of steam at the top.

All that aside...this is a fun and dynamic climbing adventure that keeps you on edge. If that is your thing this is the line for you!!

Exit by traversing left to a down climb that will lead you to safety!!

Location

From the 1st parking lot follow the Sisters Trail for a few hundred yards or until you come to the Ponderosa Trail junction just below and to the EAST of the "Brothers Lookout" formation. Turn west (left) onto the Ponderosa Trail for about 30-50 yards before you began to head NORTH (right) up the steeping slope. Try to stay as EAST as you can so you enter the 2nd Tier gully at a gradual pace. The "Brothers' Under Belly Cave" is located up (West). It's an obvious mini-cave on your right. Enjoy.

Protection

A few pads and a few spotters would be good for this line!!!

Photos

Used to call this one the Hidden Thong. Nice route with a scary finish. When I came upon this cave a while ago I discovered a pair of discarded under garments. Thus the name. The traverse on the ledge above (The Beach) is great. Names, first ascents, who cares. Lover of the Brother. Jan 4, 2011