Injured Reserve
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.6 from 136 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Chris Martin, 1994 |
Page Views: | 3,401 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | James Otey on Jul 10, 2009 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned.
Description
Located in the middle of the Warm Up wall, Injured Reserve along with its neighbors to the left and right provide an excellent warm up for the mere mortals working 12s at the Lode. Scramble up a large boulder/ ledge to begin. Stick clipping the first bolt is a grand idea, for blowing the open moves would be very bad news.
Start by cranking a big move off of a good crimp with questionable feet. Pump up jugs for a few more bolts where you will be met with the crux: Either make a body tensiony big move off a slopey ledge to a good pocket or finesse your way up a slopey pinch. This crux alone made the route feel a little stiffer than the grade would suggest- Consensus is starting to trend towards 5.11b. After surmounting the crux, cruise jugs to the anchors, keeping it together for a great clipping jug.
Start by cranking a big move off of a good crimp with questionable feet. Pump up jugs for a few more bolts where you will be met with the crux: Either make a body tensiony big move off a slopey ledge to a good pocket or finesse your way up a slopey pinch. This crux alone made the route feel a little stiffer than the grade would suggest- Consensus is starting to trend towards 5.11b. After surmounting the crux, cruise jugs to the anchors, keeping it together for a great clipping jug.
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