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Routes in Warm-Up Wall

All In S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ben S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Breathe Right S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Injured Reserve S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Laura S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Purdy Mouth S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
So Low S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Swahili Slang S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trust in Jesus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Martin, 1994
Page Views: 1,465 total, 14/month
Shared By: James Otey on Jul 10, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Private Property Details

Description

Located in the middle of the Warm Up wall, Injured Reserve along with its neighbors to the left and right provide an excellent warm up for the mere mortals working 12s at the Lode. Scramble up a large boulder/ ledge to begin. Stick clipping the first bolt is a grand idea, for blowing the open moves would be very bad news.

Start by cranking a big move off of a good crimp with questionable feet. Pump up jugs for a few more bolts where you will be met with the crux: Either make a body tensiony big move off a slopey ledge to a good pocket or finesse your way up a slopey pinch. This crux alone made the route feel a little stiffer than the grade would suggest- Consensus is starting to trend towards 5.11b. After surmounting the crux, cruise jugs to the anchors, keeping it together for a great clipping jug.

Location

The steepish face in the middle of the Warm Up wall. Of the 3 elevens that reside on this sector, Injured Reserve is the middle one.

Protection

5 Bolts to a two bolt anchor. Fixed mussy hooks.

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