Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Gunther Doppelhofer, B. Hochreiter 4/15/1987
Page Views: 1,060 total · 8/month
Shared By: Anthony Baraff on Jul 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

Aber Muckl!, "But Muckle!" (?) in German, is an alternate first two pitches of Nightmare, two routes to the right which continues to the top. There's lots of pebble pinching on this one as you climb a subtle runoff groove to the huge ledge and cave. It's possible to string together these two pitches if you have a 70m rope. It's possible, but certainly not advisable to do the same with a long 60m rope.

You must bring double ropes to get down from this route. You will not be able to get down on a single rope.

Pitch 1: 5.9 120 feet
Climb up the darkened groove to a bolted belay.

Pitch 2: 5.8 80 feet
Continue up the groove past the left-hand side of the large circular depression and up to the belay at the extreme right-hand side of the large cave and ledge half way up Doupianifels.

Listed as P1: VI and P2: V under the UIAA system.

Location

The route follows a darkened runoff groove to the right of a large circular depression and to the left of another higher circular depression on the north side of Doupianifels.

Protection

6 bolts up to the first belay.

Photos

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