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Routes in Top of the world/Entry way

Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Jason Kamen
Page Views: 3,461 total, 34/month
Shared By: Rob Riggleman on Jul 8, 2009
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Start on the right-facing jugs, and move left on some fairly bad slopers. Set up on some sloping feet and make a big move up to a sloping rail and try to surmount the bulge.

Location

Pretty much straight uphill from the Entry Way boulder, the starting jugs are obvious and well-chalked.

Protection

Pads.

Photos

Sean Denny
Irvine
  V6
Sean Denny   Irvine
  V6
Did the sit today. Started with a left hand in the big concave sloper, and the right hand on the lowest small sloping dish on the right face. This basically made it two moves to the hole. Grunty for sure. V7/8 for this start is my vote. It felt like wrestling with an ape. Jan 13, 2013
Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
  V6
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
  V6
My vote is probably a six on normal days. The friction was incredible today and it felt like a five. Mar 14, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V5-6
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  V5-6
I don't usually see it prudent (or worthwhile) to downgrade problems, but I kind of think V7 is a bit of a stretch for this problem. Maybe V6. Just my opinion; I'm not willing to push the issue. Problems in Santa Barbara have a way of cleaning up, morphing, losing holds, etc. It is—regardless of grade—one of the better problems at Lizard's Mouth. Aug 12, 2010
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  V5-6
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  V5-6
There is a sit-start to this problem which begins down and right of the starting holds. Crank off of two sloping holds, burl through some fairly awkward climbing to gain Gangsta's starting rail, then blast off. Perhaps not a classic, but certainly a grunt-fest. About V7 or 8. Apr 18, 2010
Rob Riggleman
Santa Barbara, CA
Rob Riggleman   Santa Barbara, CA
Yet again I got info for this problem from here. I also took the grade from a video linked on their site; I haven't sent it yet, but I'll give it a star rating and my opinion on the grade if/when I put it together. Jul 8, 2009