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Routes in North Wall

The Bush League S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Graspin' for Straw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pineapple Thunderpussy (aka Magic Carpet Ride) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Radical Sabbatical S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rafting with Rednecks (aka "Test") S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tears S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Uckfay Ushbay S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Scallywag, 2007
Page Views: 298 total · 3/month
Shared By: Stinky Pug on Jul 8, 2009
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a good warm-up climb. The crux comes towards the end on the steeper headwall.

Begin right over the trail, with a few easy moves to get established in a shallow dihedral. Thin cruxy moves head up & right to the lower-angled face. A few jugs lead to a ledge below the prominent headwall. Follow nice pockets up and slightly left across the headwall to good jugs at the lip.

Location

This is the leftmost route on the North Wall.

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

Joncharlesdavis
  5.10c
Joncharlesdavis  
  5.10c
Fun, definitely onsightable. Sep 19, 2015
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
  5.10b/c
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
  5.10b/c
Agreed. Great warm-up, and for a 5.10 climber, just stay calm and get comfortable for clips. Aug 14, 2013
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10b/c
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10b/c
A good warm-up route with the crux starting right away and continuing for the first 3 bolts. After that the climbing easies up except for a couple moves near the top. Sep 2, 2009