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Routes in Upper Fifth Canyon

7) Identity Crisis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
???? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Diamond T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bonzai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
F.S.R. S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Taters For Out Of Staters S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gyno Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In Reverse S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
LSH T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Layback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost Arrow Spur S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mangled up in blue S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mangler, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peter Beater S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spur of the Moment S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 140 total, 1/month
Shared By: Scott Coldiron on Jul 8, 2009
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

A great route! The start is steep and the first bolt is high. Unless you're very solid at the grade, I'd recommend bouldering up Lost Arrow to clip the first bolt, then lower down to start.

This is not a great TR route. I've got one friend with scars on his back from a TR fall at the crux.
The tree lurks just behind you, but is not a problem on lead.

A strenuous and steep start on good holds leads into sidepulls, slopers, and small crimps till you hit the next jug above the last bolt. The crux is at the fourth bolt. It's stout and not obvious.

Location

The first route you get to on the East wall of the Upper Fifth. It's right behind the big tree.

Protection

6 bolts to chains.

Photos

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Jacob Schmidt
Spokane, WA
Jacob Schmidt   Spokane, WA
As of today, I'm not sure if this route will go from the ground anymore (at least not at the grade). After years of freezing and thawing, and helped along by people weighting that .5 cam placed before the first bolt, a significant chunk of rock has fallen. Chris and I climbed the route today and I pulled a large hold off from the big undercling below the first bolt while on a toprope.

To climb the route now one must traverse in from Lost Arrow to clip the first bolt (which has always been the safer way to climb this route anyway).

In mine and Chris' opinions, it's better that we lose some good holds on a single route than anyone lose there lives pulling this thing unexpectedly. Considering the size of what came loose, a climber having not yet clipped in would have been hospitalized and if their belayer was standing underneath they certainly would have been killed.

Kudos to whoever can figure out the new sequence, but I'd advise you to traverse in and clip the bolt first. Apr 7, 2017
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
 
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
 
It would be a good idea to protect the first moves with gear... I know of one strong climber who decked before he could reach the first bolt. I believe a good purple C4 and a marginal #4 protected him through the start on his redpoint burn. Mar 9, 2015
Chuck McQuade
Golden, CO
Chuck McQuade   Golden, CO
Due to some loose rock before the high first bolt. I Would second the recommendation on starting up lost arrow, at the second bolt traverse left to the first bolt for FTFOS, then lower. Oct 16, 2010