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Routes in Graveside Matter Slab

Dementor's Kiss S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Faceplant S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ghost Rider S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lap Dance S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Mulato S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pass Through S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspect Nargles S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Too Much Cock Not Enough Lycra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 111 total, 1/month
Shared By: Karsten Holmquist on Jul 7, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Climb three bulges on perfect young limestone to rap anchors. First bulge is surmounted by a committing mantle (pretty common to the Cedar Canyon slabs) and is safely bolted. Bulge #2 requires that a pocket on the left be brushed out & mantle. Dont step on the little tree & dont fall. Bulge #3 has a great horizontal a foot or two back (clean the sand out), definately dont fall if you are just going to mantle. Run away from bulge #3 to the anchor. It is great and prepares you for Psychoslabaddict and such.

Location

the route is around the corner and 2 or 3 routes to the right of Ghost Rider (5.6) next to a tree.

Protection

B & H...can be interpreted as about 3 or so Bolts and Hangers or Balls and a Helmet (typical of the Iron County Crew's routes)

Photos

the professor
  5.11b
the professor  
  5.11b
Agree with 5.11b for first bulge. Second bulge is 10- and third is 10+. Can only rate it one star because of the dirt/sand that washes down each time it rains. On the other hand, the bolts are well positioned, making the moves quite safe (rather than PG-13). Sep 7, 2013
ZachBradford
  5.11b
ZachBradford  
  5.11b
Hey TP the picture I put up really make messes up the scale. Sorry about that. The anchors for the route were put up in 2005 so there is no way that this is widow maker. Widow maker is further to the left.

As mentioned the picture doesn't really give the route proper scale. The first pocket you can see is at head height it would be a useless placement.

The first location you could place gear would be at 20 feet and then one more at around 30 feet. After the Third bolt the route does run to the top but its 5.4 climbing for the last 10 feet. Aug 1, 2010
ZachBradford
  5.11b
ZachBradford  
  5.11b
The route is great! The intro move is Hard but it eases up after that. With a direct start under the first bolt it felt more 11b. I am only 5' 7" may be easier for taller climbers. Either way is a great climb for someone looking for a challenge to get off the ground. The moves up top are worth any effort it takes you at the start. Jul 13, 2009
I would very much like to know who did the FA in this little gem. Those folks know what fun is! Jul 7, 2009