Avg: 2.4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||James Garrett and Felix Hörmann, 6 July 2009|
|Page Views:||2,311 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||James Garrett on Jul 7, 2009|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
Pitch #1: Climb past 3 bolts up the blunt arete passing some intermittent finger cracks to more fun slab to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 25m.
Pitch #2: Continue up past some blocks to a steep and puzzling struggle of an undercling well protected roof (perhaps a one V4 boulder move?) to a finger crack that shallows and widens. Pass some fixed pitons and 2 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.10+, 30m.
Pitch #3: Climb yet another nice crack until it ends and move right to a great hand crack to a two-bolt belay. 5.8, 30m.
Pitch #4: Climb 3rd class through a clearing in the "jungle"staying on the arete, pass the roof on the left and then move back right to a bolt protecting the slab until reaching intermittent horizontal hand cracks. Pass a fixed piton while trending right up more hand cracks to a two-bolt belay under a roof. 5.8, 35m.
Pitch #5: Climb nice chickenheads past a bolt turning the roof on the right. Continue up and left to a final step up a pleasant crack system to a two-bolt belay on the "pine tree ledge". 5.7+, 30m.
Pitch #6: Another quality and unique pitch, but tricky! Pass a bolt on the slab to another intriguing and unforgiving overhang (with maybe another V5 boulder move:)), underclinging, and mantle to small ledges, sling a monster knob, and chickenheads to a corner. Pass 3 bolts to a sloping faint ramp to a two bolt belay. A register was left here. 5.10+, 35m.
Pitch #7: Typical exfoliating cruxy slab protected by 2 bolts (5.7/8 grit) to a dirty groove leads to 3rd class in a long pitch to the tower top. No fixed gear left at top. We down climbed and rappelled from trees. 5.7 and mostly 3rd class, 70m.
Rappel the route.
While rappelling the route, we found easy and trouble free pulls. Sure seems to beat the grovel down one of the gullies to the west or east.