Type: Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: James Garrett and Felix Hörmann, 6 July 2009
Page Views: 2,311 total · 16/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 7, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. Details

Description

East Bell, usually ignored compared to its more popular neighboring Bells Towers lower in the canyon has had no recorded new activity since the early 70's. It has retained a "dirty reputation" to this day. We felt like boll weevils while cleaning this beauty into shape.

Pitch #1: Climb past 3 bolts up the blunt arete passing some intermittent finger cracks to more fun slab to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 25m.

Pitch #2: Continue up past some blocks to a steep and puzzling struggle of an undercling well protected roof (perhaps a one V4 boulder move?) to a finger crack that shallows and widens. Pass some fixed pitons and 2 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.10+, 30m.

Pitch #3: Climb yet another nice crack until it ends and move right to a great hand crack to a two-bolt belay. 5.8, 30m.

Pitch #4: Climb 3rd class through a clearing in the "jungle"staying on the arete, pass the roof on the left and then move back right to a bolt protecting the slab until reaching intermittent horizontal hand cracks. Pass a fixed piton while trending right up more hand cracks to a two-bolt belay under a roof. 5.8, 35m.

Pitch #5: Climb nice chickenheads past a bolt turning the roof on the right. Continue up and left to a final step up a pleasant crack system to a two-bolt belay on the "pine tree ledge". 5.7+, 30m.

Pitch #6: Another quality and unique pitch, but tricky! Pass a bolt on the slab to another intriguing and unforgiving overhang (with maybe another V5 boulder move:)), underclinging, and mantle to small ledges, sling a monster knob, and chickenheads to a corner. Pass 3 bolts to a sloping faint ramp to a two bolt belay. A register was left here. 5.10+, 35m.

Pitch #7: Typical exfoliating cruxy slab protected by 2 bolts (5.7/8 grit) to a dirty groove leads to 3rd class in a long pitch to the tower top. No fixed gear left at top. We down climbed and rappelled from trees. 5.7 and mostly 3rd class, 70m.

Rappel the route.

Location

Approach as for Route Of All Evil on the SW Face of East Bell Tower. Start climbing on a blunt arete 50m to the right and below the start of that 1964 Lowe-McQuarrie original line on the face.

While rappelling the route, we found easy and trouble free pulls. Sure seems to beat the grovel down one of the gullies to the west or east.

Protection

QDs, Set of Nuts and Camalots from micro sizes to #4. No doubles needed. Some may find a #5 useful, but it is not obligatory. 70m rope recommended.

Photos