PRINT: Rock Climb Magnatude, The New River Gorge Region

Magnatude

5.11d, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 80 votes
FA: Doug Reed, 1991
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Kaymoor > 2. First Buttress

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Start out by climbing straight up to clip the first bolt. Head up and left, then back right to the 2nd bolt. From here difficulty backs down a bit for the next few bolts. Lots of high steps and reaches to positive holds. Make good use of any rests, you'll need it for the top. After clipping the last bolt, the crux begins...Small crimps and small feet can be used to make a big move to a nice mail slot hold. Once you stick the hold, aim for the left facing corner, making a reach for a nice jug with poor feet. From here, there's a few easy moves to the shuts. The slabby section below the shuts can be a bit dirty. Very nice climb! A must do for the area!

Location

This route begins on the right side of a low overhang about 20 feet to the right of World's Hardest, 5.12a.

Protection

7 bolts, shuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start of Magnatude (right) and Oh It's You Bob (left); both are gently laid back a few degrees despite the pano distortion of the photo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Corey Longboy

5.11d

One of the best 11d's I've climbed at the new. Up there with Toxic in terms of fun IMO, but a very different climb. Very approachable, well bolted. Lock-off, high step, reach a crimp, repeat - the epitome of new river climbing Nov 8, 2023