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Magna Mater Spire

5.10+, Trad, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Alex Garhart and Daniel Garman
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Unaweep Canyon > Main Canyon: Un… > Mighty Mouse Wall > Lower Mighty Mouse Wall

Description

Make a couple tricky boulder moves off the ground to a horizontal weakness (weakness protects with BD #0.4 Camalot) and move up and right to clip a bolt using a hidden undercling. Climb past the bolt (crux) via a sidepull and stemming to easier terrain and a good stance. Climb easy class 5 to the unique, small summit.
This short bouldery route is very fun and would be worthy of 3 stars if it were not for the sections of slightly crumbly rock.

Location

This free standing tower is on the far west end of Mighty Mouse Wall ~50' left of Elysium. The route ascends the southeast arete and east face.

Protection

BD #0.4, (2)#1, 1 bolt. No anchors on summit, down climb 8' of easy 5th class to the "neck" of formation and belay in a crack that takes #1 BDs. Simul rap from the deep groove in the neck down the east and west faces.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking east.  You can see the deep groove used for the simul rap.
[Hide Photo] Looking east. You can see the deep groove used for the simul rap.
The route.
[Hide Photo] The route.