To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Magna Mater Spire
5.10+,
Trad, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Alex Garhart and Daniel Garman
Colorado
> Grand Junction…
> Unaweep Canyon
> Main Canyon: Un…
> Mighty Mouse Wall
> Lower Mighty Mouse Wall
Description
Make a couple tricky boulder moves off the ground to a horizontal weakness (weakness protects with BD #0.4 Camalot) and move up and right to clip a bolt using a hidden undercling. Climb past the bolt (crux) via a sidepull and stemming to easier terrain and a good stance. Climb easy class 5 to the unique, small summit.
This short bouldery route is very fun and would be worthy of 3 stars if it were not for the sections of slightly crumbly rock.
Location
This free standing tower is on the far west end of Mighty Mouse Wall ~50' left of Elysium. The route ascends the southeast arete and east face.
Protection
BD #0.4, (2)#1, 1 bolt. No anchors on summit, down climb 8' of easy 5th class to the "neck" of formation and belay in a crack that takes #1 BDs. Simul rap from the deep groove in the neck down the east and west faces.
[Hide Photo] Looking east. You can see the deep groove used for the simul rap.