Mountain Club Route
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 40.5699, -111.62454 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 836 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Allen Sanderson on Jul 5, 2009 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route was more than likely the first route on the wall and done before most climbers today were born. In talking to members of the Alpenbock Club none could recall doing the route so my guess is that it was done by members of the Mountain Club thus it's name. It is rated 5.9 cause at the time that was the hardest possible rating. Could be harder or easier by today's standard - you be the judge.
Start on the left side below a shallow grove and boulder up a series of downward sloping ledges that lead to the shallow grove. Climb the left side as it steepens at the top step right on to a large ledge. Avoid the right side as it consists of some monster stacked blocks. Climb short dihedral system that ends at a lone tree with slings (new as of July 2009).
This route is often wet however it is surprisingly clean if you do not mind some cobwebs.




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