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Just Say No
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | John Steiger & Allen Sanderson August 2008 |
Page Views: | 660 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Allen Sanderson on Jul 5, 2009 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route is for those who just wanta say no to clipping bolts and test their mental skills with placing gear. Start from the ground where the rock abruptly changes color from dark to white. Climb to the large ledge 15-20 feet up, then step left onto the steep face left of Momentary Relapse and follow horizontals (placing pro when you can) to a second large ledge (where the hard climbing on Momentary Relapse ends). From the second large ledge, climb the reddish dihedral to chossy looking rock above to the rap anchors that shared with Momentary Relapse.
Note - To preserve the rap anchors, Metolius rap hangers, please DO NOT lower directly off the anchors as it puts unnecessary wear on them. Instead, use your own gear for lowering. The last person to climb should rap. (This comment is true for any route with fixed anchors but more so because replacing the hangers is a PITA).
Note - To preserve the rap anchors, Metolius rap hangers, please DO NOT lower directly off the anchors as it puts unnecessary wear on them. Instead, use your own gear for lowering. The last person to climb should rap. (This comment is true for any route with fixed anchors but more so because replacing the hangers is a PITA).
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