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July 4th

5.10a, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 88 votes
FA: Mike McNeil
S Dakota > Spearfish Canyon > Sunshine > Euphamiah Beresford M…

Description

This absolutely fabulous route will make you stand up and salute Spearfish Canyon. Starts on "Oh beautiful for spacious pockets" and works its way to "Amber waves of a roof" that might give the intermediate climber a WTF moment. But don't worry, just think about how to attack the problem, and go for it, the moves are all there and the protection is exactly where you want it. Then keep jug hauling up this "purple mountain majesty", and you will end up far "above the fruited plains". Has anyone ever sung the ENTIRE America The Beautiful song? It's freaking long! Just like this exceptional route.

Location: 8th route from the right.

July 4th is listed as route #10 on the Butt Rocks Wall in the Spearfish Canyon, The VC and Other Black Hills Limestone guidebook by Mike Cronin. Look for the blocky, black pillar that is detached from the wall and would put you about ten feet above the trail if you were to sit on it. Belay from the trail. The climber will have to navigate a steep, dirty slope (often through poison ivy) to get to the climb itself. Starting on top of the black pillar is common practice. It is recommended that you use a big rope bag or a tarp to protect yourself and keep your shoes clean as you navigate your way there.

Protection

Take at least thirteen quickdraws. There are 11 bolts and closed shut anchors you need to clip while moving up this beast.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pic taken from San Fran
[Hide Photo] Pic taken from San Fran
Climber on left is on 4th of July
[Hide Photo] Climber on left is on 4th of July

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joe M
Beckley, wv
 
[Hide Comment] This is definitely a must do route!!! There are now 11 bolts plus the anchors. Jun 5, 2010