Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Markus Reitenbach and Alex Garhart, July 1, 2009
Page Views: 592 total · 5/month
Shared By: Alex Garhart on Jul 1, 2009
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the thin crack on the left wall of the chimney that trends deeper into the chimney (watch out for a pile of guano in a jug). When the chimney narrows to an offwidth/squeeze, traverse back out and grunt up through the squeeze chimney (crux, protects with #6 Camalot). Continue grunting up the squeeze to easier terrain, climb over a huge chockstone and continue up a short finger crack to a 2 bolt anchor on the right. Shares anchors with Know Your Enemy.

Location

Far west end of Mighty Mouse Wall. From the start to Elysium, scramble left and up to the first chimney through some scrub oak. See Beta photo on main page.

Protection

BD singles #0-3 C3, #0.4-#6 C4, set of stoppers and slings. 2 bolt anchor at top, rap 75' to the south.

Photos

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Markus Reitenbach
Grand Junction, CO
Markus Reitenbach   Grand Junction, CO
The 5.9 rating should be upgraded for heavier folks. A 200 pound climber might not fit through the gap at all. Jul 2, 2009
Alex Garhart
  5.9
Alex Garhart  
  5.9
I agree it would be more difficult for a larger person. You would have to traverse further out of the squeeze where the chimney flares and the moves become marginal but not impossible, making the crux a little stiffer. Watch you rope drag over the #6 Camalot at the crux, it could walk back into the squeeze and tip out. Oct 14, 2009