Black flies and Dearticks
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bradley White, 1985|
|Page Views:||621 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||bradley white on Jul 1, 2009|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionAt lowest northern side of this section of rock get up onto it, to do a long technical friction traverse left south to a sustained crux near the end of pitch. You are now at the Bombay dike reached 30+ ft off the ground above a ceiling. Here on out the climb is very exposed at 5-5 up outside edges of this Bombay dike 100+ feat until it forks, one way is a vertical dead end and the other a hard pan dirt ramp. I was on a one way trip and had to get up to the forest. A lousy dangerous finish to a beautiful climb. Good rock quality, there should be no problems to making fixed rappel stations on this dike. In the winter nowadays it is known as "The Drool of the Beast". There are multiples photographs of the dike section when you type in this ice climbing title.
LocationRoute start where it is boulder problem of steep height to access an obvious traverse ramp on the north side of the ledge. West uphill from Greeley ponds. Climbs needs rappel station (two ropes) or if you have to climb the hard pan dirt ramp and bushwhack up after the cliff and keep going up north before heading down so that the entire extrusion has become past. Hard gnarly stunted pine forest to down climb. Rappel is best option, then bushwhack back to Greeley ponds for the trail back to the Kang.
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