Type: Trad, 70 ft, Grade II
FA: Pete Takeda and Lenore Sparks
Page Views: 620 total · 5/month
Shared By: Lenore Sparks on Jul 1, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


This climb is on the prow to the right of Beta Blocker. Begin the climb with a very thin face move boulder problem. Behind you is a large tooth that can serve as a bombay chimney. Move out of the chimney, around the block and into a thin, left facing corner. A lieback to crux sidepulls with sparse pro leads to another crack system to the left. Follow this to a slab that joins with Beta Blocker's hand crack.

The rap station is on the top on an obvious ledge. There is NO fixed gear on this route save the rap station.


It is on Heartbreak Hotel's NE side top the right of Beta Blocker. A huge, nose-like feature makes this route obvious.


#1-3 Camalots, wires, and small, finger-sized pieces.


EldoFiend   WY
More like 10+. Jul 1, 2010
dameeser   denver
It's 5.11 for sure. Jul 3, 2017
Lenore Sparks
Dolores, CO
Lenore Sparks   Dolores, CO
I ground up lead this a few weeks ago. I want to stress the PG-13 rating mainly because it is quite dirty due to a lack of traffic. I put an anchor on this one at the top ledge to accommodate this climb and the other three that meet on the ledge. Any neighboring climb can utilize this anchor to rap down rather than walk off. I still think it is a cool, futuristic line, originally envisioned by Pete. Jul 7, 2017