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Routes in Heartbreak Hotel

Ah Fair of the Heart T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beta Blocker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreak June T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Hypotension T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monsters Incorporated T V9 7C
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft, Grade II
FA: Pete Takeda and Lenore Sparks
Page Views: 597 total · 6/month
Shared By: lenore sparks on Jul 1, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This climb is on the prow to the right of Beta Blocker. Begin the climb with a very thin face move boulder problem. Behind you is a large tooth that can serve as a bombay chimney. Move out of the chimney, around the block and into a thin, left facing corner. A lieback to crux sidepulls with sparse pro leads to another crack system to the left. Follow this to a slab that joins with Beta Blocker's hand crack.

The rap station is on the top on an obvious ledge. There is NO fixed gear on this route save the rap station.

Location

It is on Heartbreak Hotel's NE side top the right of Beta Blocker. A huge, nose-like feature makes this route obvious.

Protection

#1-3 Camalots, wires, and small, finger-sized pieces.

Photos

lenore sparks
Dolores, Colorado
 
lenore sparks   Dolores, Colorado
 
I ground up lead this a few weeks ago. I want to stress the PG-13 rating mainly because it is quite dirty due to a lack of traffic. I put an anchor on this one at the top ledge to accommodate this climb and the other three that meet on the ledge. Any neighboring climb can utilize this anchor to rap down rather than walk off. I still think it is a cool, futuristic line, originally envisioned by Pete. Jul 7, 2017
dameeser
denver
dameeser   denver
It's 5.11 for sure. Jul 3, 2017
EldoFiend
WY
5.10+
EldoFiend   WY
5.10+
More like 10+. Jul 1, 2010

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