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Orange Man

5.10c, Trad, 190 ft (58 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 36 votes
FA: Dave Caunt et al, 1990's
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Low Profile Dome
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Description

Climb a golden, polished face down low with two bolts protecting the first of two 5.10c cruxes with micro edge crimping and edging. This first crux can be avoided by climbing unprotected 5.6 knob climbing to the left.

Above, plug some gear before climbing the upper face with good friction and knobs. A second, shorter and seemingly easier 5.10c crux is involved on this upper face which can be avoided by climbing to the right of the bolt line at 5.10a R. Great knob climbing and friction climbing takes you to the top and a two bolt anchor.

Location

In between Golfer's Route and Darth Vader's Revenge.

Protection

Draws and cams from 1/2" to 2"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Orange Man Crux
[Hide Photo] Orange Man Crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I found Orange Man easier or at least no harder than Darth Vader's or Shit Hooks. Out of the three Darth Vader's was the hardest. Jun 15, 2013
Matt N
CA
[Hide Comment] TR'd this, led DVR - ^this guy is way off Jul 5, 2017
Josh Fengel
Nucla, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Nice, longer route. The lower crux is over pretty quick. I used a #3.5 in the horizontal below the first bolt - the climbing up to the first bolt is pretty mild, but a good distance to the ground if you went that far, unprotected. Second crux felt more like 5.9 after doing the first one below. Climbing the long string of knobs above the second crux is cake. Upper-half of Darth Vader's Revenge and Shit Hooks was more difficult and sustained than the upper-half of Orange Man Jul 9, 2018
Potter Wonderland
Planet Earth
 
[Hide Comment] I lead this route and it's certainly harder than both shit hooks and DVR. while the cruxes are short they make the crux knobs on DVR feel like jugs!
2nd crux felt harder than the first to me. I TR the route after and the move felt easier but it's a sort of heady move without that rope hanging above you.
All in all, fantastic slab/easy knob climb Jul 20, 2022
[Hide Comment] I top roped this one and it was definitely harder than both climbs to the right of it. Delicate and precise slab climbing through the first crux which is protected with bolts. The 2nd crux was short and seemed easier. Good one to top rope after DVR if ya want a challenging slab route. Sep 25, 2022