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Sport, 25 ft,
Avg: 3.8 from 4
FA: Darryl Roth
> Canon City
> Shelf Rd
> Great Black North
Access Issue: This crag may be on Private Property!
The access situation here is a bit murky. According to "Shelf Road Rock", the crag is likely located on state land that is leased to a local rancher. Climbers should treat this area as though it were private property. Keep a low profile, leave your dogs at home, and keep the noise down.
At the far right end of the Great Black North lies a spectacular, leaning mass of impeccable red & white-speckled limestone known as The Borg Boulder. The awesome northeast face of this block overhangs roughly 15 degrees & currently features three diminutive bolted sport routes and a bouldering traverse.
Locutus bolts directly up the left half of the face. The climbing is extremely powerful, demanding full-length cranks between deep, incut two finger pockets. The sequential line requires flawless routefinding, but fortunately the entire line can be easily scoped from the ground. Although short, Locutus is ultra-sustained, with no easy moves and only one 'rest'-- a strenuous shake at the fourth bolt. There is an optional mono (left hand) on this route, near the first bolt. If this route were three times as long, it would rank among the most sought after test-pieces in Colorado. As it is, it's an unforgettable, must-do route.
Left-most bolted route on the Borg Boulder, which is located on the far right (west) end of the cliff.
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Stick Clip highly recommended! All of the clips are desparate, so whip out your stick clip skills & pre-hang as many draws as you can!
[Hide Photo] The Borg Boulder. "Locutus" follows the left-most line of bolts on the beautiful face. From this angle, it appears to climb the center of the face. "The Borg" climbs thru the whitish patch t…