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> Gobot Boulder
Gobot
V11 YDS 8A Font
Avg: 4 from 2
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| Type: | Boulder, Alpine, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | Dave Graham |
| Page Views: | 3,192 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | tcamillieri on Jun 30, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Fragile Alpine Area
Details
This is a fragile alpine bouldering area and following Leave No Trace principles is important. Never stash pads. Do not alter landings, chip or glue holds, or remove or alter vegetation. Walk on hard surfaces such as boulders or established trails. Store your gear on boulders instead of dirt or vegetation. Clean up spilled chalk and tick marks and brush holds. Keep your presence low key and unobtrusive. Pack out everything you brought and anything else that shouldn't have been left there. RMNP rangers are very aware of the impact that bouldering has on this environment.
Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Most people say the crux is the long lock off to to the tooth hold. I, however, disagree. I believe this is the beginning of the crux. From here to the "jug." Although the redpoint crux comes all the way down to the back to back dynos at the end. Would have got for starts except for the landing and the grease on a few of the holds. Bring alcohol!
Beta: Start matched on the well chalked jug, high right foot, cross left hand to crimp and stretch, stretch, stretch out the the crimp next to the starting jug on autobot. Swing your feet over and heel hook the square cut. Lock off and reach to the tooth. Match feet, release heelhook. Work you feet over to a big drop knee on the left side of the wall. (This is my crux). Big dropknee, reach the pinch with a good thumb catch, right foot on the crimp that you locked off own to reach the tooth. Right foot up to higher drop knee, lunge for the "jug." Match jug, left foot backstep on the tooth and reach to a really cool sloping pinch. Right foot by your right hand on the jug, reach up to a bad pinch with your right hand. Put your right foot on the "jug" and then dyno for the good knob on the rail. Match and dyno again for the horn.
Beta: Start matched on the well chalked jug, high right foot, cross left hand to crimp and stretch, stretch, stretch out the the crimp next to the starting jug on autobot. Swing your feet over and heel hook the square cut. Lock off and reach to the tooth. Match feet, release heelhook. Work you feet over to a big drop knee on the left side of the wall. (This is my crux). Big dropknee, reach the pinch with a good thumb catch, right foot on the crimp that you locked off own to reach the tooth. Right foot up to higher drop knee, lunge for the "jug." Match jug, left foot backstep on the tooth and reach to a really cool sloping pinch. Right foot by your right hand on the jug, reach up to a bad pinch with your right hand. Put your right foot on the "jug" and then dyno for the good knob on the rail. Match and dyno again for the horn.
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