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The Megaplex

5.11c, Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.8 from 36 votes
FA: Lewis,Calder
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Pine Creek Canyon > Scheelite Canyo… > Mustache Wall

Description

Excellent three pitch sport route on the right side of the Mustache Wall.

P1- Follows the arete over a small roof up to a two bolt belay stance outside a flared slot. The crux(11c) is low on the pitch, below the roof.

P2-Continues up the crack then takes a wild traverse out left where you encounter a thin move(11c) before traversing back right to the second bolted anchor.

P3-Follow another wild traverse back left that ends with an under cling to a cruxy move up onto the arete. Continue up the arete then follow a series of thin moves back right(another cruxy section) to yet another cruxy move, big reach to a nice hold. From there continue up to a nice ledge with the last two bolt anchor on the left.

Rap the route

Location

This route is found on the right side of the Mustache Wall, left of Double Dog Dare, starting on the arete on the right side of a chimney route, Master of the Obscure.

Protection

13 bolts per pitch with bolted anchors and Mussy hooks.
70m rope/two 60's

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The best climb on Moustache Wall? Probably.<br>
<br>
Megan on Pitch 2 of Megaplex
[Hide Photo] The best climb on Moustache Wall? Probably. Megan on Pitch 2 of Megaplex

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
[Hide Comment] PLEASE NOTE: you must have a 70 m rope to rappel!!!!

Crazy exposed fun moves as you ascend; makes a sport route feel alpine! Jun 1, 2011
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] 1st pitch is OK, 2nd is fun with good moves, 3rd is the best by far. Jul 19, 2011
Vincent Gallegos
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] This is a very nice sustained climb! Every clip is delicate and the movement is just fantastic-- albeit a very soft 11c. Jan 27, 2018