Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Vallorcine

Crocs mignons et vieilles dentelles S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guide's Route S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 330 ft, 5 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,115 total, 21/month
Shared By: HTP on Jun 29, 2009
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Five slab-tastic pitches of fun, with a nice dihedral thrown in on pitch four for good measure. The right side of the crag was crawling with other parties when we arrived, but no one was on this climb on the left side. We thought it was a score.

P1: Follow the easy slab past frequent bolts to snake left above the first overhang and right below the next. French rating: 4c
P2: More vertical climbing and fewer bolts this pitch a little more interesting. French rating: 4b, but felt harder.
P3: Crux pitch. Sparsely bolted. A petit peu bold! French rating: 5b
P4: Dihedral pitch--short, but fun after the slabs. French rating: 5a
P5: Exit pitch over easy but mossy slabs to the chain atop the cliff. Belay off anchors, not the chains.

Location

Left side of the Vallorcine crag. Look for a route that starts left of the overhangs and skirts between them to the right. According to the guidebook (Crag Climbs in Chamonix, by Francois Burnier and Dominique Potard), this is the left-most multipitch route, but once you're a pitch up, the routes branch and seem to go all over the rock. Take a topo if you don't want to accidentally end up on a 6a+ pitch.

Protection

Fully equipped, as they say in France, but the middle pitches are sparsely bolted. Next time I'd bring a small rack of stoppers, maybe some smallish cams to try to supplement the run-out sections.

Each belay station has a giant, single D-ring (popular anchor in this area) cemented into the wall.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments