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God of Thunder (.10c Variation)

5.10c, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 83 votes
FA: Dario Gambetta and Tony Yaniro, 1978
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Lover's Leap > Dear John Buttress

Description

Splitter hand crack for first 15 feet, crack becomes featured for another 15 feet, last 10 feet is the crux flared, splitter finger crack.

There is a second pitch directly above this route that ends with two offwidth roof cracks, I think the first one goes at .11b and the second at .11c.
There is a bolted anchor on the face above each roof.

Location

Mostly straight in crack climbing on crack a few feet to the right of the corner. Dihedral wall and corner crack to your left are off.

Protection

single set cams .3-2 and a set of small-med. nuts. Bolted anchor at top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Last rest before the crux
[Hide Photo] Last rest before the crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

tallmark515
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Top 10-15 feet are the crux. One or two tricky moves in the flared, off fingers crack, find a good lock before you pump out.

Bottom is probably 5.9'ish. Jul 2, 2009
Connor Novak
No longer SF
 
[Hide Comment] Enjoyable bouldery crux if, at the horizontal crack just prior to the last finger section, you pull hard right off of two edges into a wide hand jam. Feels like 11a, or maybe I need to hit the bouldering gym more. Jul 24, 2023