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Ribbon in the Sky

5.10c, Trad, 140 ft,  Avg: 4 from 5 votes
FA: Pat Contor and Gary Taylor, 1988
Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood… > Beer Belly Buttress

Description

"This route features some of the best quartzite in the canyon," according to the Ruckman guide. Ribbon in the Sky begins on a ledge, a few feet to the left of a scrub oak that marks the start of the Whip-Poor-Will Crack. Climb the blocky face to the first bolt. Take advantage of any gear placements as you finess your way up the beautifully featured face, past five more bolts on this long, involved pitch. A single 60m can be used to rap from the slings atop 12 oz. Curl.

Location

Ribbon in the Sky is on the main Beer Belly face, waaay the hell up there.

Protection

Bring along a standard single rack; the guidebook recommends at least one 2.5" cam, and quickdraws for the bolts. Scramble south, then downclimb into the prominent chimney to access the sling anchor above 12 oz. Curl.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The start to ribbon. a low bolt to thin gear
[Hide Photo] The start to ribbon. a low bolt to thin gear

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

mountainsense
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Though the Ruckman guide's topo shows a two-bolt anchor at the top of this route, we did not see it--the line follows a natural top out to the right along jugs. A gear anchor can be devised using finger-sized cams in excellent rock. Giv'r! Jun 28, 2009
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
[Hide Comment] Atop the route is a one buttonhead and one chockstone anchor. The buttonhead looks good, but it is hard to evaluate the thread. Dec 1, 2009
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
[Hide Comment] chossiest looking anchor I'd seen in the wasatch. That was until I rapped off the anchor ontop of 12 oz curl 5min later. May 6, 2013