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Routes in One-Eyed Cat Wall

Beat the Devil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Classic Cowboy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying High as the Sky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Had a Lean on My Sole S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hole in the Ozone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Iceman Cometh S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mask of the Devil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One-Eyed Cat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Voodoo Glow Skulls S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Pete Paredes & Brad Singer, May 2007
Page Views: 70 total, 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 27, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Power up thin moves along twin lieback flakes at the start to gain the "hole" and the end of the difficulties. Move up and left past a slight runout on easy ground (optional 1" piece) to the base of a steep smooth slab. Up the slab, move left over a small roof and finish up near-vertical bumpy face to anchors on a ledge.

It's recommended to clip the 1st bolt with a single locker and not clip the 2nd bolt until after you've grabbed the hole. Doing otherwise may make the route more difficult and result in a potential groundfall.

Location

Right of Mask of the Devil in a pit.

Protection

5 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

Jeff Edge
  5.10d
Jeff Edge  
  5.10d
Fun, start is definitely hard for 10c. Felt it was probably 10d for the area. Interesting route for sure. Nov 17, 2014
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10c/d
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10c/d
If you follow the bolt line at the bottom, you will be going up a blank face with pin scar cracks and super crimpy holds. I slipped a few times after making the first bolt clip. This route had "just enough" holds and difficult beta if you stay on the bolt line. Very fun and surprising moves near the top. Aug 29, 2011
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
All but the start of this route was done by myself and Fred Maki in 2005 on toprope. At the start we stayed left on the obvious larger holds for a fun 5.8 route. Jul 5, 2009