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Routes in The Dry Wall

Can't Say S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Conductor S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crazy Train, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Graffiti Patient S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grushenka S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hear My Train A Comin' S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Its Right to be Frank S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
JJ Memorial S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Left Be Frank S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Red Rooster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lowe Route, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pit, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pocket Full of Trundles S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Precious, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Something Must Break S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stop that Terrain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown 11 S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Way Hammered S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wicked Bender S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 344 total, 3/month
Shared By: bheller on Jun 25, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Echo Canyon Seasonal Closure: Jan. 1 - second Saturday in April Details

Description

Easy, fun, left trending climbing at the start leads straight up through a right facing type feature to a very bouldery crux (V6) around and above the second bolt. Climb straight up through the crux to the horizontal break- up higher you will eventually move left past the rounded arete and into the left facing corner feature. Finish the route by exiting out the right side of the big roof and clipping the chains above. Expect shallow two finger pockets with cranker moves at the crux and a bit of pump management above.

Location

Sixth route from the left. Start by traversing left from the ground up to the first bolt by the sand-lense huecos.

Protection

Bolted. Lower from anchors.

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lech
  5.12c/d
lech  
  5.12c/d
A v4/5 says if the crux came right off the ground and then the route turned into a 5.6 we would have a 5.12b/c. This route thankfully offers more than that. Again my v4/5 grade for the crux is my opinion and that of the guy i climbed it with. We could be doing the rout different or just have different strengths. My intention is to let others know this may be worth a try even if you can't do v6. Jul 11, 2016
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
You do realize that a crux of v4/5 would put this route at 12b/c right? I posted this route over 7 years ago as hard at 12c and later changed it to d after 8 people disagreed.I also do/did the crazy train crux just as you describe. Jun 21, 2016
lech
  5.12c/d
lech  
  5.12c/d
I don't know about the chipping on crazy train as I climbed it last year for the first time. I pulled big to a slick coble matched hands adjusted feet and went to a jug. I have seen boulders that regularly send above V8 have trouble on crazy train. They also found the way I did the route to be much harder for them than the way they were trying to do it (different bad hold). I think this is common in climbing that we feel our way is the right or only way when different things work for different people. This is what makes outside great. Once we have worked a route one way we often feel the another way is way harder when it is just you have worked your way. You described the chipped holds to be out left I don't believe myself or the others using a different method used these holds. With that all being said Grushenka may have an 8 move problem but I have boulder a lot of 8 move problems and my opinion is that this ticks in at a V4 or V5 depending on the area as ratings vary. The only place I have climbed that I feel would call this V6 is indoors and by that standard the start to crazy train would be V8. Jun 21, 2016
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Before being chipped by a talentless ass-clown coward, Crazy Train basically equaled a 1 move V6. There used to only really be 1 way to do it. Grushenka's crux allows for multiple different sequences and all are 6-8 moves long. A 1 move V6 is a bit of a rarity and naturally will feel "harder" than 6-8 moves of V6. Feb 23, 2016
lech
  5.12c/d
lech  
  5.12c/d
After the crux some large holds where lose and threatened to come off. Be careful on this one.

I don't think the crux on this one is V6. It felt much easier than Crazy Train. Feb 23, 2016
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
I agree the link into STT is great! It does feel a touch harder than the Grushenka standard finish as well (you don't get that softball rest cobble on the link). V6 to a rest, to 4 bolts of sustained 5.12a/b climbing, to the final STT V3 crux, to overhanging jugs. I think 12+ seems right for the link-up. Makes a great fitness route! Apr 24, 2014
steve edwards
SLC, UT
  5.12d
steve edwards   SLC, UT
  5.12d
More aesthetic finish is on Stop That Train because you get its crux, sans rest, after this business of Grushenka is done. Expect this to feel a lot more than one grade harder than the "12b" jug haul on the right. Sep 15, 2009