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Routes in Hole in the Wall

Another Pair of New Shoes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Birth of the Cool T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Nazi T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dr Jeckle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
End of My Rope T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Insane Clown Posse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Miss Piggy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mouth of a Sailor S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Hyde T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Occasional Freshman T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Paydirt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rastafari T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sailor Slang S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Prom S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sister Sledge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sophmoric Sandbag T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Strike It Rich T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Little Birds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: John Kear 2001
Page Views: 649 total, 6/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jun 24, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Trundle up some hollow blocks forming a shallow left facing corner. At the top of the corner clip your first bolt and move up on a couple of jugs to the second bolt and get your game face on. The next section to the 3rd bolt is the crux and pretty much all the holds are bad and/or face the wrong direction. Once you've made it through the crux head up onto the slab for a complete hands off rest and contemplate the slabby section ahead. Run up the ramp to the left and attack the slab past a couple of bolts to lower angle climbing above and a last bolt.

John used a single biner on the first bolt to keep the rope out of his feet, I used a regular draw, so your choice. You may want a long runner on the first one or two bolts on the slabby section above the rest as the first is pretty far left of the other bolts, so you don't hit the ledge you were just standing on.

Location

The right hand of the two sport routes that start around the flake right of Miss Piggy. Start off of a higher ledge to the right at a shallow left facing corner that is about 10 feet high.

Protection

6 bolts and chain anchors.

Photos

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John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12d
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12d
Glad to see someone actually repeat this route. I figured a bolted sport route on good rock would have taken less than 8 years to get a second ascent. Good job Lee for buckin' up!

As to Lee's comments about the route, the crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and feels about V6, really just a short boulder problem. The upper section is less steep but not truly slabby just less steep than the lower crux. The upper crux section is quite a bit easier probably 11d/12a still hard but a lot easier than the lower section. Jun 25, 2009