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Routes in Because it's there Wall

Alaskan Vermin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Burning Ring of Fire, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost Zero T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Toothy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Oswald, Porter 2001
Page Views: 786 total, 8/month
Shared By: Andrew Krosbakken on Jun 24, 2009
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

This route should be considered fairly serious, there are many loose blocks and marginal fixed gear.

Pitch one: This pitch is the money pitch and by far the best pitch on the route. climb a flake feature into the sustained hand crack that leads to a one bolt and slung chock stone anchor.
Pitch two: This pitch rallies up some some fingery layback, remember to reach right for some compression moves. Be VERY careful of the huge loose block on the top of this. It ends on a nice ledge.
Pitch three: 5.9 A1 or 5.11 (FFA Hoyt and Trocki) sustained 5.9 climbing leads to the top.

Descend via a walk off to the right.

Protection

gear to 4 inches and a set of stoppers, doubles in hands (1,2 and 3) and maybe doubles in .4 and .3 would be nice. Extra tat to back up anchors.

Photos

L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
cheep cheep. Jul 1, 2016
The crickets are wondering if you even climbed the third pitch? Jul 1, 2016
What did you think about the 3rd pitch, junior? Jun 28, 2016
Walk off to the right needs no rappel. Not sure why anyone would anchor off the manky bolt. Continue climbing for 40 feet and make an anchor. May is the best months to climb in this wall. Ski in, ski out, and all the choss at the base is frozen/covered. Aug 3, 2015
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
The first pitch of this route is excellent. Beautiful splitter, perhaps one of the best in Hatcher. it's probably more like 5.10.

the second pitch 5.8 was awful, the 5.10 variation has a couple of huge loose blocks.

Oh and getting to the base of the wall is awful and actively tries to kill you while you do the scramble.

Bring some tat to replace the anchor cords. The bolt at the top of the first pitch is a very short 1/4 inch wedge, it wiggles in the hole, back it up or replace it, if I had a drill with me, I'd consider it. Aug 3, 2015
This route is the classic of the wall. The first pitch features a 5 star splitter hand crack that is sustained 5.9. There are variations leading up to the crux pitch which is aided (c1) up the right seam, or free climbed up the face to the left at solid 5.11 protected by 2 fixed pitons. The last 50 feet of the pitch are not to be underestimated loose 5.9. The route was first climbed to the top by Carl Oswald and Matt Porter. First free ascent by Andy Hoyt and Ben Trocki. Nov 11, 2014