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Routes in O&W Wall

Cheap Seats T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dog And Pony Show T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Original Route/Suicide Blonde T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Under the Big Top T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Vertigo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
snake charmer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Wheely et al / Jeff Noffsinger Patrick Turner
Page Views: 5,514 total, 53/month
Shared By: Jeff Dopp on Jun 23, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

The first pitch is 5.6 and involves a series of ledges.
The 2nd pitch is the crux and is easier than it looks...even if it's wet. Great pro!
Stop and belay at the anchors on the wall above the top of the corner.
Walk left on the big ledge and belay.
The final pitch follows the edge of the void and primarily uses chicken heads for pro. The final moves are a bit pumpy and maybe harder than the actual crux but brief. Walk up and right through the forest and rappel off a tree back to the big ledge. You can rappel this route with one 60 meter rope but may have to do three rappels. I recommend trailing a second rope.

Location

From Oneida follow the O&W road down through the gorge until you are almost to the old bridge. If you drive across the bridge and turn around you'll get a great view of the route. Park on the east side of the bridge and hike up the hill for about 10 mins to the base of the obvious corner in the center of the wall.

Protection

A set of stoppers, a set of cams and some long runners is fine.
paul.adams.3
Knoxville, TN
 
paul.adams.3   Knoxville, TN
 
I did not find any webbing/permanent rap station on top. There is a faint trail that spits you out above the original route chimney. It's a spectacular, unobstructed view, and there are some good trees to rap off there. May 15, 2017
Bryce Bentz
Gatlinburg, TN
  5.8
Bryce Bentz   Gatlinburg, TN
  5.8
Do NOT rappel off of the chain at the end of P3, you will end up downclimbing most of the rappel, walk right and set up a rappel off of a tree. There's 2 sets of bolts at P2, use the shiny ones they're bomber. Sep 9, 2016
SeanIrwin
Knoxville TN
SeanIrwin   Knoxville TN
What would the Original Route without the Suicide Blonde finish go at in terms of grade? Jul 11, 2016
kyle howe
Knoxville, TN
  5.8-
kyle howe   Knoxville, TN
  5.8-
Pitches 1 and 2 can be linked with no drag, 130'. Pitch 3 of Suicide Blonde is more like a 5.4, it's very low-angled and a jug-haul to the chain. Cord with a quick-link on tree above Original Route to rap to lunch ledge. Dec 21, 2014