Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bradley White, Jim Shimberg, 1987
Page Views: 131 total · 1/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up the corner to the ceiling above the first pitch of Achilles's Heel (5-7) then leave by going left onto a sloping ledge. Traverse over to its left side to enter an inclining head wall. Go up a series of very steep switchbacks (crux). Extremely tiresome because difficult protection placements due to the angles necessary to having good pro. Almost entirely wire stoppers and often blind placements with long slings to minimize rope drag. All removable pro on this climb. Finish is onto another head wall left. All rock in this area looks like it should fall down. Appearances can be deceiving during Two. The perception then was directly right and up is a pile of stacked rocks. Staying left of that we ended at the top of the Muir Buttress. 2 bolts later a belay and then Jim and I rappelled to the ground.

Location

The giant ceiling above the first pitch of Achilles's Heel. Right of Muir Buttress. Climb unprotected slabs to base of Achilles's Heel

Protection

Trad. Rack with lots of small to medium stoppers. 2 bolt rappel station.

Photos

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