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Routes in Lower Mill Creek

Axis of Evil T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fox Trot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Genetic Denial T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hasta La Vista T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Out of Africa T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paper Crane, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Petrified Feline T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Poqito Negro T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Safari T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sexy Beast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Back T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Trad Warrior, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Walk The Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wild Kingdom T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: FFA: Joshua Janes, equipped by Mark Howe in 2004
Page Views: 5,783 total, 56/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 22, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

From the moment I laid eyes on this line I dreamed of climbing it. I love this route and spent many days over the course of three years looking down over the Moab valley, taking afternoon naps on the Porch, and of course, climbing, flailing, and eventually succeeding.

Several years ago, when a friend of mine took me to this unspoiled part of Mill Creek, I was blown away by both the established lines and the potential for new ones, but one thing stood out to me above and beyond the rest: a singular line of well-spaced bolts up a beautiful, gently overhanging, tiger-striped wall that extended almost 150' up from the depths of the canyon to a perfect belay ledge just below the rim. That afternoon I climbed the first half of the wall via the third pitch of "Axis of Evil," 5.12b/c, a previously established route. The climbing was brilliant, but halfway up the headwall, the route escaped off to the left to a corner system, avoiding the obvious direct finish up the stunning prow. This other line, dubbed "The Right Hand of Evil," had been meticulously cleaned and bolted by Mark Howe in 2004, but had seen little action. Supposedly it had been top-roped cleanly by Zach Smith, but it had yet to see a clean lead. I myself toproped it several times over the years, but until recently, usually felt like it was way out of my league. Then, feeling stronger, I called Mark and asked him about it, and he graciously encouraged me to get out there and climb on it. I promptly resumed work on the route, on lead, primarily belayed by my friends Ben and Amanda. After many heartbreaking falls at the high, redpoint crux, the route went down on a sunny autumn afternoon in what I consider perhaps my finest moment of climbing. I'll never be a truly brilliant rock climber, but on that particular day I felt like one. Can you tell I love this climb? When it comes down to it though, that's all it is: a rock climb!

From the edge of the Porch look back at the wall behind you, just up canyon, and you can't miss it. The amazing, steep black streak that begins on a varnished slab far below and tops out by a tiny tree on a foot ledge just below the rim. Fix a line and rap in from the next set of anchors down-canyon, atop Axis Of Evil. Climb 20' up off the belay ledge to the first clip (long sling recommended) which protects an initial boulder problem reaching around an arete and into a corner. From here, follow the corner upwards to a layback flake that leads to a good stance below a small roof and a seam above. Figure out how to use this feature to stretch left -- perhaps the true crux of the route -- to the edge of a sharp flake. After this move, continue bear-hugging and liebacking up the edge of the flake and the arete to the right, performing either big, dynamic moves between good holds, or technical moves off of smaller ones. From here the climbing momentarily eases and you climb up and into a V-shaped inset that provides a comfortable no-hands rest. At this point Axis Of Evil breaks left out of the inset, and The Paper Crane traverses right. Take a deep breath and execute some devilishly technical moves traversing right, and slightly down, from the inset to an exposed, pumpy stance below a 10' vertical crack. Some long moves off of decent edges lead up to the crack, and then a technical double gaston gains the right end of a sloping rail and a chance to get a shake and perhaps make the next clip. The final crux comes as a sequential, pumpy fingertip traverse back left over a steep wall with little for feet, followed by a wonderful stand-up move to a stance that would afford a rest if you weren't feeling like you were going to barn-door at any moment. A deep breath, one more clip, and some powerful liebacking and jamming leads up the final 15' section to a bolted anchor by the tree. This last stretch is protectable with a #3 Camalot, but if you made it this far you have nothing to worry about.

This truly is one of the best climbs I've ever been on: multiple cruxes, amazing, technical movement and all played out upon a beautiful feature in a breathtaking canyon. If you choose to climb this route, please take care of this beautiful area and treat it with respect - it is a magical place.

Protection

15 draws, a long sling. A rap line, a lead line.
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12d
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12d
Josh, my friend found some key beta on the last crux move that I feel drops the grade one letter. The way I was originally trying it (same as in your photos) would warrant the coveted 13a grade but the alternate beta makes this sequence much much easier. Aug 18, 2014
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
Getting your first 13a while retaining downgrading hard-man status? Sounds like the best of both worlds! Jun 10, 2014
Josh Janes    
 
C'mon Steven, you called it your first 13a on FB and are now downrating it here? Sure Trad Warrior is probably 12c, but this is solid 13a. May 29, 2014
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.12d
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.12d
This is an amazing route! I thought it was even better than The Trad Warrior! May 29, 2014
I guess we still rename routes when they are first freed? ;)
I like right hand of evil, but paper crane is okay too. Jan 14, 2010
Brendan N
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Brendan N   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
great movement, but a bit sandy in spots Sep 24, 2009
Wow dude, great send! Impressive, verbose, awesome! Rad! Jun 24, 2009