Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bradley White, Ed Harrison
Page Views: 125 total · 1/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jun 22, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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The first pitch is a low angle (5-1) slab with no protection for 100+ft to a 1 bolt belay. After the slab up steeply on fragile 5-8) rock to the corner left. Climb corner until there is an exit left to reach short wall to the ledge with trees under a large ceiling. Traverse right across to the corner on the right, climb up to and around right a shallow ceiling onto a roof. Above roof climb to a large ledge to belay. From ledge move left to another corner and aid (A-1) or do crux free off of scary knifeblade first done by Ted Hammond . After corner jam between 2 blocks and go up right wall and belay. On the 4th pitch (5-5) head right and up to climb face beneath 'Muir Wall' (5-7) hand crack. After that belay. Used to proceed up and right to tree ledge beneath the final wall up and off of the cliff. Used to top off left of the Whitney Gilman Ridge. Last pitch and some of fourth pitch are gone. Fourth is doable but very dangerously run out. Last pitch is nowhere to be found in plain sight. We traversed to W.G.R. in 2000 to get off the climb. It used to be a decent climb and done several times.


Near to the right side of the Muir Buttress


1 bolt, Bring small thinnest knifeblade to back up third pitch pin. lost arrows may be needed also besides that normal trad rack.