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Just Jugs

5.8, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 104 votes
FA: unkown
S Dakota > Needles Of Rush… > Mt Rushmore Nat… > Chopping Block > N Park > Veiny
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Description

This is not a typical route at Rushmore. There are a lot of really interesting large features to use. This is the route on the left. Start up the route past the first bolt to an overhange. Traverse right a couple of feet on big holds. Reach up and pinch/lieback on a large fin/flake. Continue up on large holds until you get the last bolt (6th bolt). Continue up the easy slab to the anchors. Note, this route shares the 6th bolt and anchors with Fintastic.

Location

This is the left side route on the first formation in the North Park area.

Protection

6 bolts plus anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mason after leading just jugs "J Jugs" This climb is a blast of fun!!
[Hide Photo] Mason after leading just jugs "J Jugs" This climb is a blast of fun!!
Fun steep athletic route. Definitely not technical crimping or Rushmore friction. Some pretty interesting holds.
[Hide Photo] Fun steep athletic route. Definitely not technical crimping or Rushmore friction. Some pretty interesting holds.
Joe Monks pulling down on the cool holds.
[Hide Photo] Joe Monks pulling down on the cool holds.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jerkface
 
[Hide Comment] Unless I'm missing something, I would consider the crux move past the roof a 5.9 at least. Everything else is at most 5.8 but this is the hardest climb I have ever done for the given 5.8 rating. Still fun though. May 11, 2014
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Agreed. I think this depends on height and climbing style. Some people actually think Fintastic is harder than Just Jugs. To me Fintastic was a 7 if you stemmed down low and 8 if you didn't. Just Jugs felt like a 5.9. Taller guys just reach over that first roof. I had to bust a big steep sudden move out right off a smear, because I am too short:(! Not an easy move and kind of weird ... JJ is really not my style though. Both routes are quite enjoyable regardless of how you rate them. Jul 21, 2014
Mason Mueller
Milwaukee, WI
 
[Hide Comment] Just a Blast to climb!!! Sep 8, 2015
SeanBoi
[Hide Comment] Both Just Jugs and Fintastic were very sandbagged from my experience, but as the first routes I climbed in the BH they got me hooked to the area. Very fun and challenging I'd recommend for anyone in the climbers campground. Nov 2, 2017
John Campbell
Wilmot
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I thought the 5.8 was accurate. If Gossamer is 5.7 and I'm scared to death, and I fail... and I march up this one, I just don't understand the universe or logical thought. This is a fun route in a beautiful hangout. May 24, 2020