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Routes in Unknown Area 1

Fintastic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Date S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Just Jugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree Grease T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unkown
Page Views: 1,442 total, 14/month
Shared By: Zach Keeney on Jun 21, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This is not a typical route at Rushmore. There are a lot of really interesting large features to use. This is the route on the left. Start up the route past the first bolt to an overhange. Traverse right a couple of feet on big holds. Reach up and pinch/lieback on a large fin/flake. Continue up on large holds until you get the last bolt (6th bolt). Continue up the easy slab to the anchors. Note, this route shares the 6th bolt and anchors with Fintastic.

Location

This is the left side route on the first formation in the North Park area.

Protection

6 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

SeanBoi  
Both Just Jugs and Fintastic were very sandbagged from my experience, but as the first routes I climbed in the BH they got me hooked to the area. Very fun and challenging I'd recommend for anyone in the climbers campground. Nov 2, 2017
Mason Mueller
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
 
Mason Mueller   Milwaukee, Wisconsin
 
Just a Blast to climb!!! Sep 8, 2015
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.9-
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.9-
Agreed. I think this depends on height and climbing style. Some people actually think Fintastic is harder than Just Jugs. To me Fintastic was a 7 if you stemmed down low and 8 if you didn't. Just Jugs felt like a 5.9. Taller guys just reach over that first roof. I had to bust a big steep sudden move out right off a smear, because I am too short:(! Not an easy move and kind of weird ... JJ is really not my style though. Both routes are quite enjoyable regardless of how you rate them. Jul 21, 2014
Jerkface  
 
Unless I'm missing something, I would consider the crux move past the roof a 5.9 at least. Everything else is at most 5.8 but this is the hardest climb I have ever done for the given 5.8 rating. Still fun though. May 11, 2014