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Routes in Goldirocks

Blind People Have the Hummin' Jones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Fuse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stress Fracture T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
WPW T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli & Richard Pampe, 1985
Page Views: 891 total, 9/month
Shared By: poundit14 on Jun 21, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Climb up a large flake into a right-facing, rattly, finger crack. Pull the lip and the climb is done. There are bolts on top for an anchor with rap rings. Due to the crystalline nature of the crack, the gear is a little hard to fish in. The gear is good, but you will have to fiddle with it to get it in nicely.

Location

This climb is on the northern side of a little wall referred to as Goldirocks, in Heel&Toe, use the same trail to get to the southeast side of Blair 0, and continue east to Goldirocks. The short wall should be visible, it is just on the other side of the little valley.

Also, if you are up on Medium Cool or that area, walk east around the end, by Crack Named Sue, and you'll be looking at Stress Fracture down in the valley. It is a very obvious climb.

Protection

#0.5-#2 Camalots with maybe doubles on #0.5 and #0.75 sizes.

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Chris Mack  
 
I kind of agree with slim. It is worth doing once. Might as well run a lap or two on TR afterward, to make it worth it. We expected it to be twice as long, so it was a bit of a letdown when we realized it was only 25 feet high. I agree that the gear is a little tedious. The only placement I really had an issue with was the one right before the hand jam exit. It seemed to take forever to get it just right, because the rock is so jagged, and it needs to be just right because you really cant afford it to blow out with that ledge below you. Sep 24, 2012
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
I had wanted to do this one for a long time, but it isn't that great. The setting is cool, but the climbing isn't as good as it looks. The rock quality is poor on the first half, the gear is kind of tedious, and the climbing is just kind of awkward (and sharp, even by Vedauwoo standards). Probably worth doing once. Sep 4, 2012
Elijah Flenner
  5.9+
Elijah Flenner  
  5.9+
I found the gear easy to place and bomber. It is a short route, but it is nice to be able to climb a vertical finger crack at Vedauwoo. Since the route is so short, thus the ground is close, I would bring at least two or three finger sized pieces and two hand sized pieces (one for the bottom and one for the top). Jul 4, 2009