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Routes in The Sentinel

Almost Overlooked T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Lost Ledge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Briqan (Brian?) Holcomb & Richard Warren - July 1989
Page Views: 180 total, 2/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Jun 21, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

P1: Once above the 15 or 20 foot crack, head mostly up while trending left to below a bulge with a kind of hard-to-see button-head bolt - more like a large boulder. Unlock the rightward moves past the bolt/bulge (5.7), then continue up past the very short evergreen tree, reaching a nice, flat, large-ish belay ledge at about 30+ meters (about 30 feet above the short evergreen tree).

P2: Head up on easy terrain to a bit below the left side of the roof. Follow cracks up and rightward to the approximate middle of the roof. Traverse right (5.7) and then up out from under the roof on thin pro. Continue up to the top.

I think a better finish is as described by kevinnlong: "Instead of cruising upward and to the climber's right, head slightly to the climber's left from the big ledge area. Make your way up to a minor trough with a prominant 10 foot right facing flake. Climb to the climber's right of the flake up good rock and good pro. Finish at the summit to the climber's left of the traditional finish.

This variation is certainly 5.7-5.8 depending on your choices.

According to A. Simmons, DON'T PULL ON THE FLAKE; it may be loose. There is plenty of good climbing 5 feet right of it or to the left of it.
"

We tried the above for P2, going up the minor trough and then stepping right about 5 feet to avoid some loose rock, then up to the summit. It was very good. ... as led by franciscov.

Location

Start at the base clockwise from Lost Ledge but before reaching the West Face of The Sentinel. The route begins straight up a very clean ~one inch crack that is about 15 or 20 feet tall; see the below photo for the locations of the start and the hard-to-see bolt.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Bill Lawry
New Mexico
 
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
 
Revised the description to coincide with the start described in Mike Hill's guide. Jul 15, 2012
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.6 PG13
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
  5.6 PG13
There is an excellent variation on P2 (or the upper part of a single P1).

Instead of cruising upward and to the climber's right, head slightly to the climber's left from the big ledge area. Make your way up to a minor trough with a prominant 10 foot right facing flake. Climb to the climber's right of the flake up good rock and good pro. Finish at the summit to the climber's left of the traditional finish.

This variation is certainly 5.7-5.8 depending on your choices.

According to A. Simmons, DON'T PULL ON THE FLAKE; it may be loose. There is plenty of good climbing 5 feet right of it or to the left of it. Jun 25, 2012
Mike Mills
  5.6
Mike Mills  
  5.6
I also never did find the button head bolt, but did find the piton with a screwgate quicklink in the location described above. This climb can be done in 1 pitch with a 70m rope but rope drag was a bit of a hassle. A 60 m rope would involve some simul-climbing to complete in 1 pitch. Oct 9, 2011
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
 
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
 
Good summary, Steven R. The "bulge" has a bit of contrived feeling to it at first. But I believe the terrain there and for a little bit beyond is interesting. Also, since the write up, I've done the start at the 1-inch crack and agree with you. Sep 26, 2011
Steven Reneau  
5.6
At the base, we tried the 1-inch crack and the face just left of it, ~8 ft right of the log. Perhaps more interesting than the crack with vege to the left, but the right crack ends at a ledge easily reachable from the ground, so didn’t add much. We did not find the button-head bolt, but found a piton with a screwgate down left from the short pine tree. Maybe we were left of the bulge, bypassing the crux? Reached the belay ledge at ~35 m. After traversing right below the P2 roof, joined the upper part of Lost Ledge for the finish. Our route seemed like 5.6 or easy 5.7, easier than Lost Ledge. Sep 26, 2011