Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Briqan (Brian?) Holcomb & Richard Warren - July 1989
Page Views: 560 total · 4/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Jun 21, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

P1: Once above the 15 or 20 foot crack, head mostly up while trending left to below a bulge with a kind of hard-to-see button-head bolt - more like a large boulder. Unlock the rightward moves past the bolt/bulge (5.7), then continue up past the very short evergreen tree, reaching a nice, flat, large-ish belay ledge at about 30+ meters (about 30 feet above the short evergreen tree).

P2: Head up on easy terrain to a bit below the left side of the roof. Follow cracks up and rightward to the approximate middle of the roof. Traverse right (5.7) and then up out from under the roof on thin pro. Continue up to the top.

I think a better finish is as described by kevinnlong: "Instead of cruising upward and to the climber's right, head slightly to the climber's left from the big ledge area. Make your way up to a minor trough with a prominant 10 foot right facing flake. Climb to the climber's right of the flake up good rock and good pro. Finish at the summit to the climber's left of the traditional finish.

This variation is certainly 5.7-5.8 depending on your choices.

According to A. Simmons, DON'T PULL ON THE FLAKE; it may be loose. There is plenty of good climbing 5 feet right of it or to the left of it.
"

We tried the above for P2, going up the minor trough and then stepping right about 5 feet to avoid some loose rock, then up to the summit. It was very good. ... as led by franciscov.

Location

Start at the base clockwise from Lost Ledge but before reaching the West Face of The Sentinel. The route begins straight up a very clean ~one inch crack that is about 15 or 20 feet tall; see the below photo for the locations of the start and the hard-to-see bolt.
Start of P1 is marked, as well as the location of the hard-to-see bolt.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos