Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Erik Anderson, Crystal Anderson, 11/2004
Page Views: 893 total · 8/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Jun 21, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

22 Opinions

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Since the route begins in a narrow corridor, it is possible to stem the start, then move out on the face after the second bolt or so. The rest of the route clocks in at 5.10c.


the start certainly goes without stemming, and offers some very powerful crimping with very poor feet (5.11d/5.12a).


Just left of Flappy.


10 bolts. Draws.


andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Thinking the stemming option verboten, I did the start with only the face-holds, and was promptly surprised by the difficulty—and quality—of the route. Be warned, however, that a fall during the first twenty feet of climbing could end with a decidedly brutal "pinball" fall down the corridor. The non-stemming start is cool, but not secure. Jun 21, 2009
Just did this a couple of days ago. What a route! I took a stupid fall at the 3rd bolt and immediately saw my mistake and fired what we thought was the crux. The rest of it went smoothly. So I have to go back and do it in one go, no falls. I did enjoy having a couple of cams for the upper crack because I'm chicken, and it's STEEP up there! When I go back, I'll take just one purple Camelot for the section between the last two bolts. 10c? Dunno, but the lower crux was tough. I went at it thinking 10b as the guide book says. I'm stoked if the consensus is 10c. The workouts are finally paying off! Apr 17, 2014
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
butters   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
the section between the last 2 bolts certainly gets your attention. its not a bad idea to a bring a .75 or .5. i didnt place one and by the time i was at the last bolt my opinion about placing a piece between the bolts changed.. hah! May 19, 2015
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Love those chimney starts! Starts to get pumper a bit at the top but noting to worry about. Last few moves seem steep. 3.366 stars. Nov 14, 2016
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
I'm generally a fan of a chimney, this one is was a little intimidating. Perhaps due to cold-finger first route of the day but was thrilled I opted out of the lead, the start definately had my attention. The route is sustained, with holds just when you need them. Not really a pump fest but has your scrutiny the whole way. Good value and a fine line. Truley an area classic. Nov 14, 2016