[Hide Comment] Thinking the stemming option verboten, I did the start with only the face-holds, and was promptly surprised by the difficulty—and quality—of the route. Be warned, however, that a fall during the first twenty feet of climbing could end with a decidedly brutal "pinball" fall down the corridor. The non-stemming start is cool, but not secure. Jun 21, 2009

[Hide Comment] Just did this a couple of days ago. What a route! I took a stupid fall at the 3rd bolt and immediately saw my mistake and fired what we thought was the crux. The rest of it went smoothly. So I have to go back and do it in one go, no falls. I did enjoy having a couple of cams for the upper crack because I'm chicken, and it's STEEP up there! When I go back, I'll take just one purple Camelot for the section between the last two bolts. 10c? Dunno, but the lower crux was tough. I went at it thinking 10b as the guide book says. I'm stoked if the consensus is 10c. The workouts are finally paying off! Apr 17, 2014

[Hide Comment] the section between the last 2 bolts certainly gets your attention. its not a bad idea to a bring a .75 or .5. i didnt place one and by the time i was at the last bolt my opinion about placing a piece between the bolts changed.. hah! May 19, 2015

[Hide Comment] Love those chimney starts! Starts to get pumper a bit at the top but noting to worry about. Last few moves seem steep. 3.366 stars. Nov 14, 2016

[Hide Comment] I'm generally a fan of a chimney, this one is was a little intimidating. Perhaps due to cold-finger first route of the day but was thrilled I opted out of the lead, the start definately had my attention. The route is sustained, with holds just when you need them. Not really a pump fest but has your scrutiny the whole way. Good value and a fine line. Truley an area classic. Nov 14, 2016

[Hide Comment] Chimney stemming, thin crimping, mini-roof, jammable crack, exposure... am I missing anything. What a ride! Oct 18, 2020

[Hide Comment] Mea culpa. Got up there yesterday to repeat this great route and do an anchor upgrade--cuz "cold shuts." Well, the bolt bound up in the hole and I deformed it before realizing my error. I was going to remove the cold shuts and replace with good new gear--hangers and steel biners that can be easily replaced. Long story short: I needed to add a few biners to extend down to the steel stuff to clear my messed up bolt. Grrrr....! So, the anchors are FINE, and you can easily clip the steel gear and lower. Later this year or early next when it's cool, I'll get back up there with a bolt puller and clean up my mess. As it stands, the anchor is better because of the replaceable steel biners. Don't know why anyone would, but PLEASE, leave the anchor as it is. If someone takes the current setup, the rope will run against the bad bolt. Just clip and lower. Thanks and sorry. May 22, 2022

[Hide Comment] Not a fan of bolts in hollow sounding rock! I extended the last couple of bolts and used the anchor on Flappy. Oct 21, 2022

[Hide Comment] Absolutely awesome route! One of my new favs in the hills. Starts with a sweet chimney before transitioning to steep face climbing and finishes up an even steeper crack! Currently nothing wrong with any of the bolts or anchors that we could tell. Also no need for gear on the crack since it has a bolt right in the middle of it. Jul 16, 2024

[Hide Comment] Also I’ve noticed the name has been changed on here. In case there is any confusing this route is called Redneck Cracker Motherfuckers in all of the guidebooks. Dec 11, 2025