PRINT: Rock Climb Double Clutching, Northern Arizona

Double Clutching

5.11-, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.4 from 41 votes
FA: Tim Toula, Stan Mish 1985
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon > Waterfall > 4. The Double Clutchi…

Description

Starts to the right of Rude Awakening. Locate a series of roofs at 2/3 height. Climb large flake to top of pillar. Move left along an excellent set of finger jams and work past blocky rock towards the roofs. Move out left under BOTH roofs and continue up crack on left of pillar to top of pillar. The first route at the Waterfall to receive a lead bolt back in 1985...

Location

Left/middle of the wall.

Protection

Double set up to hands, small/medium wires.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Awesome route. Photo edited and added Topo from Aquarius Rising page

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

hanshan
Canada Mofuga

This is another great waterfall climb. 3 full stars anywhere. Mar 4, 2011

M Santisi

The bolt is in bad shape but not needed as there are many gear options. Mar 10, 2021

Chris Kalman

5.11

This could be a 3 or even 4 star route with a couple small modifications.
1. Remove the unnecessary/decrepit bolt at the roof. There are great cam placements right there. No bolt necessary.
2. Either give it a new anchor straight up/gently left from the #3 crack at the finish, or traverse even further left all the way to the anchor for Rude Awakening (that's what we did, goes at same grade, save a gray or purple metolius or small nut and a sling to protect).

The current anchor location forces the rope to grind hard over the sharp left edge of the upper roof. Traversing left mitigates that significantly.

Gear: Be sure to toss one or two #3s onto your rack.
Grade: I thought it was more 11 than 11-, FWIW.

Last thought: What about going straight up at the second roof (the system b/t current finish and Crux Deluxe)? Has anyone done that? Seems like that would be a better rope line for the anchor's current location, assuming one could reach it. Feb 12, 2023