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Another Pair of New Shoes

5.11c, Trad, Alpine, 100 ft,  Avg: 3.3 from 9 votes
FA: John Duran
New Mexico > Albuquerque Are… > Sandia Mountains > La Cueva Canyon… > Hole in the Wall

Description

From the belay, head up and left to a bolt then attack the thin crack straight up. Follow this up to the crux roof and a line of bolts up the headwall. The roof (crux) has a high bolt that can be difficult to clip then typically move a bit to the right to turn the roof or try it straight on. The headwall offers up continuous climbing at a slightly easier grade than the crack and roof and keeps you on your toes.

A great line that offers up a little of everything. Face, crack, a roof and good position.

Location

Climb either of the sport routes, Sister Sledge or Insane Clown Posse, or the first pitch of Miss Piggy to the bolted anchor at mid height on the wall. Head up and left to the first bolt but then continue straight up, the bolts continuing left to the arete are for Birth of the Cool.

Protection

Bolts with thin gear, RP's to finger size cams for the 20 feet of crack. Tree to anchor off of about 25 feet back from the top of the wall.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

MattL working his way up the seam on Another Pair of New Shoes
[Hide Photo] MattL working his way up the seam on Another Pair of New Shoes

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] The old "Hikers & Climbers Guide" may be mixed up with this climb. It lists it as 5.13a, and shows an independent bolted first pitch to this climb left of Ms. Piggy, which isn't there I think. Sep 27, 2010
[Hide Comment] Certainly just bad beta. The new info is correct. Aug 10, 2012