Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS: 35.20553, -106.44847
FA: John Duran
Page Views: 1,568 total · 8/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jun 19, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

From the belay, head up and left to a bolt then attack the thin crack straight up. Follow this up to the crux roof and a line of bolts up the headwall. The roof (crux) has a high bolt that can be difficult to clip, then typically move a bit to the right to turn the roof or try it straight on. The headwall offers up continuous climbing at a slightly easier grade than the crack and roof and keeps you on your toes.

A great line that offers up a little of everything. Face, crack, a roof and good position.

Location Suggest change

Climb either of the sport routes, Sister Sledge or Insane Clown Posse, or the first pitch of Miss Piggy to the bolted anchor at mid height on the wall. Head up and left to the first bolt but then continue straight up, the bolts continuing left to the arete are for Birth of the Cool.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts with thin gear, RP's to finger size cams for the 20 feet of crack, piton in the corner under the roof.

A two bolt anchor with quicklinks is at the top of the face on a comfortable ledge for rappelling down or continue to the top of the formation and belay off a tree set back about 20 feet from the edge.

Photos

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