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Routes in Mars

30th A.M.L. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alien Abduction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Androids S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Horny Sheep S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cameo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Desertglow S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Free Beer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hubble S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Prince's Plume T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Propulsion S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Puss in Boots S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Slap Chop T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tax Free $ S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Thumbs Up S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tom Perkins, Shelly Malkin
Page Views: 946 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tom Perkins on Jun 19, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Middle route on the wall ending under the roof.

Protection

bolts, chain anchors

Photos

Tanner Clegg
  5.12a
Tanner Clegg  
  5.12a
Big white 'x' on the finishing jug, it's in real bad shape. Still a very doable move using the pocket beneath and sidepull above, while avoiding it as a foothold while clipping the chains. Apr 22, 2017
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
As of 5/15, the large jug before the last bolt desperately needs some glue. It's ready to come out. If I had epoxy with me, I would have fixed it. It would be a shame for this great route to have this hold come off since you grab it with both hands, clip from in and then later stand on it while clipping the anchors. May 11, 2015
nate post
Silverthorne
  5.12a
nate post   Silverthorne
  5.12a
I thought this was a great climb. It was my first On-sight for 5.12 so I'm sure I'm being a little bias but It was much more fun than the far left 5.10 route that I did as a warm up. Climbing through the last three or four bolts to the anchors was a lot of fun. As far as the grade goes I have come so close to on-sighting 3 or 4 different 5.12s in the last month and I have on-sighted several 5.11d's. To me this felt 5.12 but I did it in the cold, 38 degrees and cloudy to be exact so my finger couldn't feel much by the time I reached the anchors and I barely hung on to a couple of the moves while clipping bolts. If I did it in more pleasant temp's It might have felt 11+ but hey my first 12 on-sight so I'm sticking to soft 5.12 rather than hard 5.1l I don't care what anybody else says lol :) Dec 1, 2013
Geoff Unger
Moab, UT
 
Geoff Unger   Moab, UT
 
Cool crimpy climbing. Maybe a little easier if you step left at around the third bolt. Climbing it directly straddling the bolts I felt made it solid at the grade. Nov 18, 2009